Old Homes, Neighborhoods and Friends...

This morning (Friday) we toured the Spanish Governor's Place within walking distance of our hotel. Constructed in 1749, it was the last vestige of the Presidio San Antonio de Bejar (military garrison) close to the Alamo. It was the first town in SA's history, and originally the Residence and working office of the Captain of the Presidio (army post).

Captain Ignacio Perez and his decedents used this home until the mid-1800's, when it was used for commercial purposes, then renovated in 1929 as a museum. The exterior was plain white stucco, one level and unassuming.

The interior had many Spanish Colonial period pieces and other treasures to explore. The wood doors (I love to photograph doors) had a story all their own. Here is an old-timer's story of the symbols on the Spanish doors:

Top right, and down:

The seashells represent the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria as they voyaged from the mother country across the sea.
Dragons represent the dangers the first settlers encountered, and baby's face stood for the new country of America. They brought their arms for protection, and found flowers and plenty in this great land (resources, gold and silver), including the Indian.

Left, from bottom up:

Medallion shows the head of a conquistador, which represented the Spaniards who came to this land of flowers and plenty (flower symbol), and with their arms (the shields) conquered the dangers (dragons) including the Indian (head of medicine man). In this way, the settlers won this land for the mother country across the seas.

I had a lovely treat this afternoon. We were able to meet up with two former HS students of mine who married after graduation, raised a family, and are living in San Antonio. Our family spent an hour or two with them, chatting about the past and present. It was a blessing to see my students going on for the Lord...and meet their growing children, who are also "walking down the right path."

Saturday morning dawned bright again, and we took our last breakfast on the river walk. It was bitter-sweet for me...I have thoroughly enjoyed the aviary circus each morning, as the paths along the river come to life. Our servers have been excellent. We were treated as royalty, and our meals, fit for a king!

People always comment about the hot weather in Texas. It's been in the 90's all week, and is typical of summers here. I did not find it oppressive whatsoever...maybe hotter than I'd like at high noon, but the mornings and evenings were perfect. In fact, it was too cold in the air conditioned buildings for me. As I would walk out of a frigid building, I'd feel the warm Texas air surrounding me like a cosy blanket...a good feeling!

Since we had a short stroll around the King William neighborhood at night on Thursday, the kids and I spent our last morning taking the walking tour of the most expensive real estate in Texas. Only one home, the Steves Homestead was available for an interior tour. We arrived just as the docent opened the door. This area was settled by prosperous German businessmen, and the Steves family with their three sons, were no exception. Edward began a lumber business, which is still in existence today, run by the descendants of the family. Their home, built in the mid-1800's is of Victorian French Second Empire style, and sported the first indoor swimming pool in the city. Many of the latest conveniences and amenities where seen and purchased at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition of 1876. Much of the furniture has been donated by the family throughout the years.

After a long and steamy walk back to our hotel, we cooled off in the lobby, and waited for the time we would head to the airport. San Antonio has been everything I had hoped for, and more. The people are friendly and laid back, the weather, although hot, is tolerable (the Spring is superb, I hear), the history is fascinating, and the "Texas Spirit" infectious. I hope we will be back soon...you gotta love this "Great State of Texas"!

Segue (or is it Segway?) into San Antonio History

Another quiet breakfast Thursday morning on the river walk...this time we caught the birds in the act of grabbing the "Sweet and Low" packets. Actually, it was the Urraca that stole it, and left it for the sparrows. Our server says the birds are getting crazier and crazier as they consume more artificial sugar (and sometimes the real thing). One of the younger sparrows could barely walk, and looked a bit tipsy!

Mario has been urging us to do something "fun" while we are here in SA. ("What?" I thought, "You mean visiting all the historic museums in town at breakneck speed isn't fun?") Dan and I asked him what he meant by "fun", and of course, it was all the things we can do at home: water parks, paint-balling, bicycle riding, etc. I have two rule for our family vacations: we can't eat in a restaurant we have back home, or involve ourselves in an activity we could do at home. So, for obvious reasons, those did not apply. But, being the good mother I am, I brainstormed a bit. Hey, how about a Segway tour? Yes, we have them in Chicago, but we will visit new sites.

And that's just what we did!

Segway Nation did a fantastic job with our 1 1/2 hour tour. Not only did we visit most of the places we have not had the chance to see, but we saw more than usual, because it was just the three of us. Doug gave us a quick lesson in Segway maneuvers, and with a few minutes of practice, we were off! Mario had a bit more trouble at first, being too quick in his movements, but soon, as usual, he was way ahead of Olivia and me. This machine creates quite a paradigm shift as you control it with only a slight movement with your toes and heels. There is a gyroscope inside, so you never want to leave one foot on the platform, with your other on the pavement. The Segway will spin in a circle, and carry you along with it. And don't be fooled by our photos...we are in constant motion while having our pictures taken. A slight movement, but a movement nonetheless. We are never standing still, even when we are standing!

During the tour, we visited the Alamo (formerly "Misión San Antonio de Valero) and Hemisfair Park, which has a few standing structures, including the Tower of the Americas, left from the World's Fair in 1968. The park also has a branch of the Mexican university, and the Institute of Texan Cultures on the premises.

Then we headed to Main Plaza, which in Mexican terms, was the center of town where two perpendicular main streets intersected. Off of this plaza was a red brick Court House, and the San Fernando Cathedral, the oldest Roman cathedral sanctuary in the US, where David Bowie, a hero of the Alamo was married. It also houses a marble coffin with the bones of 180 patriots who were killed in the siege.

When the massacre was over that early March morning, Santa Anna came into the compound to survey the carnage. He ordered his army to collect the bodies of the dead Mexican soldiers, and give them a Christian burial. Not so with the Alamo dead. Santa Anna made it clear to President Jackson he would not be following the protocol for war victims. His soldiers were commanded to gather the bodies and burn them. A year later, one of the couriers for Colonel Travis's plea letters, collected the bones, and brought them to San Fernando, where they received a proper burial in this sarcophagus.

Around the corner to the 1700's Spanish Governor's Palace, given recognition by National Geographic for it's beautiful artifacts and decor. We must return tomorrow to view it, and, believe it or not, Mario was okay with that! Nearby, was author O. Henry's home in San Antonio. Although he had a colorful life, Porter (his real name), finally reformed when he settled down here. That is why it was repositioned near the courthouse, as a lesson...reformation is possible. Henry, while in prison, wrote many of his surprise ending stories, and memorized every word in the dictionary. Now that is using one's time wisely! Because of the prison reform connection, the tiny museum's docents are probationers who receive credit for their work.

Next was Market Square, with it's brightly colored Mexicana goods, open air market,Tex-Mex restaurant, and an authentic Mexican bakery open 24 hours a day! We will return tonight for dinner (and dessert??). Evidently this is the place for festivals, folk dances and mariachi music...

Whew...what a trip! Our toes and feet are tired, but thankfully, we arrived safely.

Have you ever taken a Segway tour? If so, in which city?

The San Antonio Botanic Gardens...a Beautiful Piece of God's Green Earth

This morning (Wednesday) at breakfast I finally was able to capture a photo of the Blue Heron(?) that has eluded me these past few days. A nice lady sitting next to us offered to take a photo of us, so you have her to thank!

I had heard so much about the SA Botanic Gardens, that I decided we must go...and I'm glad we did! Although the GPS took us off course, we did arrive before noon. The day was hot and cloudy, but not oppressive.

mesquite

We first visited the Texas Native Trail, which featured plants from the Eastern Piney Woods, with its pine, magnolia and dogwood trees around a lake. Next, it was






SouthWest Texas with its drought tolerant plants, and the Hill Country environment with live oak, Uvalde Maple and mountain laurel.

Near the backside of the gardens were three conservatories which rose from the ground like enormous glass funnels. The desert environment had a variety of cacti, the palm house featured a spiral walkway, and the fern grotto and orangerie sported a two-story waterfall. A reflective pond with lily pads and an unusual pair of ducks was in the center of the ring of hot houses.

Next was the Japanese garden, and an amazing sensory garden for the blind. Not only did the garden have Braille plaques, but sculptures to explore and herbs to crush and savor. A beautiful garden for both the sighted and blind!


We drove back to the hotel, bought Mario a bagel from Einstein's, then Olivia and I took off on foot for the Menger Hotel for lunch. This establishment is the oldest in the city, and is famous for housing Teddy Roosevelt in 1898, when he was recruiting his "Rough Riders" to fight in Cuba during the Spanish-American War. We enjoyed the small display in the lobby with uniforms and the flag that was carried up San Juan Hill.

If you have been following our travel log, which attraction would you like to visit?

Remember the Alamo!

What a monument to the brave men who would not back down, run away, or surrender for the sake of freedom! Here's an account of our day at the Alamo...

We rose bright and early Tuesday, so we could be one of the first in line at the Alamo. Thankfully, most of the Memorial Day crowd was gone. It took us about 10 minutes to walk from the hotel to the tourist site...so strange to see it standing in the middle of a busy downtown area!

We viewed the sound and light diorama first, which gave us a mental image of the complex in the 1800's, and the order of events at the time of the 13 day siege.

Our first stop on the tour was the Mission Church. Its facade is the remaining symbol of the Alamo (which, by the way, means "cottonwood"). It was originally a home for Catholic missionaries and their converts, then, in the 1800's, a cavalry post for Spanish, then Rebel, and finally Mexican forces after their independence. Here the defenders would have kept the powder magazine and positioned the artillery. The inner room of the structure was also where the women and children where hiding, and the last area attacked by Santa Anna's army. A list of the 180 fallen patriots were memorialized on plaques inside. I was surprised to discover they had immigrated from other states, the British Isles and Germany.

Why did they fight against all odds, and what were the events leading up to that fateful day? Here it is in a nutshell:

Mexico, now free from Spain, writes a constitution for their new Republic. Santa Anna promises to honor the constitution and is sworn in as President. To develop the Northern territory of Mexico, Santa Anna invites homesteaders to Texas from the US, British Isles and Europe. The immigrants settle down, and, later, desire to free Texas from the Mexicans. Santa Anna, fearing revolt from the huge number of settlers, revokes their constitution, and installs himself as dictator.

San Antonio city was one half mile from the Alamo, and prime property, so it was desirable to both the Mexican government and the Texians, and thus, worth fighting for. The Revolutionists comprised militia from the surrounding areas, Colonel Wm. Travis, James Bowie (renowned knife fighter), and David Crockett, frontiersman and former Tennessee congressman. The group gather their defenses, and prepare to fight for freedom and the Republic. Travis writes to General Sam Houston and his army, miles away, to ask for reinforcements. He cannot come immediately, and does not understand the gravity of the situation. After four pleas are sent throughout the community, on the 8th day of the siege, 32 men answer the call from Gonzales...but they are still outnumbered: 180 to 3,000.

Before dawn, on the 13th day of March in 1836, Santa Anna's army, after awaking the sleeping patriots with cannon and gun fire, begin to scale the walls of the Alamo. Miraculously, the defenders beat back several attacks. Finally, the Mexican army rushes over the walls and into the compound. They turn the Alamo's cannon against them and blast open the barricaded doors of the church...the last defense. The defenders struggle to the death, but are overwhelmed, and by sunrise all are massacred. The only remaining survivors are Travis's black slave and the women and children hiding in the church, but about 1,100 Mexican soldiers lose their lives....

Was this a useless loss of lives? It would seem so, but God worked it out for their good!

When the news of the defeat reached the town and beyond, Sam Houston's army was incensed. Preparing for battle in three weeks, and with the cry, "Remember the Alamo!" they imprisoned Santa Anna and destroyed his army. Texas became a Republic...freedom was won! I can see why Texans are proud of their State, and why they treasure and protect the freedoms they hold so dear.

Another kind of hero is celebrated at the US Army Medical Department Museum, in the Fort Sam Houston Compound. Their motto is, "Service Above Self". The collection includes medical equipment, photos, uniforms, insignias and vehicles from 1777 to the present. Did you know there is a Veterinary division, too? They take care of horses, dogs, and all other creatures that aid in the wars (think: "War Horse"). All medical personnel put their lives on the line for those they serve...this, too, was impressive, but in an entirely different way. They deserve our respect...

What do you hold dear that is worth dying for?

SABBATH REST, A CELEBRATION, and THE PACIFIC WAR MUSEUM

We had a quiet breakfast on the River Walk again this morning...I'm going to miss that part of our daily routine! Then, we headed one hour north to the Hill Country, known for its green, rolling landscape and fresh air to a tiny town named Waring. Boerne Christian Assembly is located there, near a town center smaller than Laura Ingall's "Walnut Grove". It consisted of a general store and the church...that's it. We were late because we "blinked" and missed the turn!

We were blessed by singing the old meaningful hymns, communion at the Lord's Table, and a sermon about the meaning of "Sabbath's Rest", meant for the rejuvenation of the spirit. Afterwards, we shared in a potluck and friendly conversation, centering mainly on life in the San Antonio area.

Soon, it was time to depart, so, on the way back to the center of town, we drove through the booming town of Boerne (pronounced: bornie), a popular place to settle. Evidently, many rich Northerners have changed the flavor of this quaint German community.

Back at the hotel, we freshened up, and walked down the river to Casa del Rio...the oldest Mexican Restaurant in the area, built on a piece of property granted title by the king of Spain in 1777. Originally, it was a hacienda, then, in 1946, Alfred F. Beyer took advantage of the location and developed a business using canoes, gondolas and paddle boats. This use of the property, along with the family restaurant, opened later, helped to create the River Walk of today. It was here I chose to celebrate my birthday with "Chili Rellenos" (Poblano pepper stuffed with cheese and seasoned meat, then deep fried), and my favorite dessert...flan (custard)!

It occurred to me that I hadn't described the RiverWalk in my last post, so, since it's at the heart of San Antonio, here goes. Imagine more than two miles of tall buildings, some hotels, others shops and restaurants, adjacent to each other, on either side of a 20-30 ft shallow, meandering river. The river is flanked by stone walkways, approximately 5 feet wide, that allows a scenic stroll, and access to the lowest level of businesses. There are are 35 bridges at frequent intervals, that allow access to both sides. Occasionally, there will be a stone staircase leading up to the street level, and historic areas of the city, but the river walk is virtually invisible on that level. On a busy day(today!), one is passing shoulder to shoulder with other tourists, each scanning the umbrella covered tables on the river side, full of patrons enjoying their tasty fare, and on the other, the restaurants and shops. Add to this, aged shade trees growing along the path, ducks, birds, and fish in and around the river and at your feet, the sounds of conversation, bustling waitpersons, and commentary from the guides in the flat-bottomed tour boats, and you have a clear picture of this popular destination!

Memorial Day dawned bright, with a little excitement during breakfast. We noticed a pigeon struggling to swim across the river, looking for a landing area low enough to climb up to the stone walkway. His movements looked odd in the water, as it appeared that he was doing the butterfly stroke! I didn't know pidgeons could swim, so I watch the bird's maneuvers closely. I was relieved to know it arrived safely. I've spent my life "rescuing" animals in distress, but as my kids and friend, Marcia remind me, my care does not always result in survival!



Out to the rolling hills we headed, and on to the town of Fredericksburg, where the world class, "National Pacific War Museum" is located. The former Nimitz Hotel, graciously serving travelers and the military in the Victorian Era and beyond, houses the memorabilia and history of Chester Nimitz, Admiral of the Navy in the Pacific during WW2. His grandfather, who opened the hotel, was a great influence on Chester. His values of hard work and determination, stories of the sea and frontier Texas military, formed the boy who would one day be the highest ranking officer of the US Navy.

The George H. W. Bush Gallery (which took us 3 solid hours to view), featured the entire story of the Pacific Campaign, using films, memorabilia, photos and narration which chronicled each operation throughout the war, as it dealt with Japanese forces attepting to occupied each island. It was overwhelming to see the casualties and effects the war had on both sides. Power and greed are strong motivators for war, and I wondered if history would be different today if nations would build their empires through influence instead of bloodshed! For an entirely different view of this war, check out the "Uncle Eric" books here.

 

We then visited the combat zone, where an authentic military plane, PT boat and tanks were displayed. For an interactive game and virtual tour of the exhibit click on the link here. 

The day ended with a hearty meal at "Der Lindenbaum" restaurant, a must-do for the Del Boccio clan, since Fredericksburg was originally settled by Germans immigrants!

San Antonio, Home of the River Walk

I am departing from my usual posts this coming week, to use my blog for what it was originally intended...a travel log of our family adventures. Please join us in our journey through San Antonio and beyond, as we discover the history and uniqueness of this charming "corner" of Texas!

We had a lovely breakfast on the terrace alongside the river walk yesterday morning. Olivia and I were presented with a beautiful fruit platter and Mario, with Huevos Rancheros (think of your favorite Mexican meal, and add fried or scrambled eggs). Dan had a San Antonio traditional breakfast, with a chorizo omelet, beans with cheeses, salsas, and tortillas...tempting! But, Olivia and I, due to our restrictions, had eggs and potatoes. No matter...the view down the San Antonio river was marvelous.

As we were eating, pigeons, sparrows and mallard ducks came by to beg a few morsels from our plates. They were fairly persistent, and, when we offered nothing, they attempted to steal from each other. One black bird, a Urraca (similar to a Magpie), took a liking to the pink Sweet and Low packets, grabbing them from the tables!

In the afternoon, we toured our favorite online company, Vision Forum, called so because of their multigenerational vision for the family seen through historic events. We met the staff who produce many of the audio, visual and written materials in their store...they are humble, hard working men. When we noticed the stack of over 75 books that the acquisitions manager was considering for their line of products, Olivia and I both agreed that we'd love that job! Check out their online store here: http://www.visionforum.com/start.aspx

Then, it was on to Castroville, settled by request of the Texas government in the 1800's by Alsatian immigrants (French/German). There are over 50 small, stucco homes still standing from that era, typical of the Alsace region of France. Fascinating!

Soon it was time for dinner, so we headed to "The County Line BBQ" which was recommended by a friend, then enjoyed a swim in the hotel pool. We fell into bed exhausted...

This morning, we toured the artisan village of La Villita, San Antonio's first neighborhood of adobe huts, situated near the Alamo. It was originally a military outpost for Spanish soldiers, then settled by European immigrants after the 1819 flood. Now artsy shops occupy many of the historic buildings.

In the afternoon, we headed towards Brackenridge Park, which contains the San Antonio Zoo, golf course, playground, Sunken Garden Theatre and the Japanese Tea Gardens. We chose the latter, and enjoyed walking the stone trail even though it was in the mid 90's and humid. Actually, we've been surprised at how tolerable it is!

We attempted to visit the Fort Sam Houston museum, located on the military base, but, alas, it was closed for the Memorial Day weekend. All the soldiers were in town with their families to celebrate the holidays, so, we won't see this medical military museum until Tuesday. As they stroll by on the river walk, I thank God for their willingness to serve our country. A few I have verbally thanked in passing.

Back to the River Walk for dinner and fresh guacamole made tableside, then a rest and swim before retiring...Buenas Noches!